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EV Charging

Installing an EV Charger at Home on the Hibiscus Coast

By Cole Hooper, Registered Electrician8 min read

Most home EV chargers need a dedicated circuit running back to your switchboard, and whether your board can take one is what decides the price. That is the question worth answering first, before you settle on a charger.

People usually do it the other way around. They pick the charger, then find out the board is full, and the job doubles.

The two realistic options

A standard socket

Every EV comes with a cable that plugs into an ordinary outlet. It works, and it is slow. Roughly an overnight charge gets you a modest amount of range back, which is genuinely fine if you drive short distances and park at home every night.

The catch is that a standard outlet was never designed to deliver near its maximum for eight hours straight. On old wiring, or through an extension lead, that is how connections overheat. If you are going to trickle charge, the outlet should at least be checked, and ideally be a dedicated one.

A dedicated wall charger

A proper wall unit on its own circuit. Several times faster, safer for daily use, and it handles the charge properly rather than pushing a domestic outlet to its limit. This is what most people end up wanting once they have lived with an EV for a few months.

Single phase or three phase

Most coast houses are single phase, and a single phase wall charger is a big step up from a wall socket. That is the normal answer.

If your house happens to have three phase, a three phase charger is faster again. It is worth checking rather than assuming: we can tell from your switchboard. Converting a single phase house to three phase purely to charge a car is rarely worth it, and I would say so.

The switchboard is the real variable

This is where the money is, and it is why we look before quoting.

  • Spare capacity. The charger needs its own way in the board. A full board means dealing with the board first
  • The right protection. EV circuits require specific RCD protection, and older boards frequently do not have anything suitable
  • Total household load. A charger is a significant continuous draw. On a house already running a heat pump, hot water and an induction cooktop, it has to be considered against the whole picture rather than in isolation

If the board does need work, that is a real cost, but it is also a job that was probably coming anyway. There is more in our piece on switchboard upgrades.

Load management, and why it matters here

Many chargers can be set to manage their draw, either backing off when the rest of the house is busy or charging in off-peak hours.

On an older coast home this is often what makes a charger workable without a bigger supply upgrade. It is worth asking about specifically rather than assuming the unit you have chosen does it.

Cable run: the cost nobody budgets for

The charger goes where you park. The circuit comes from the board. The distance between those two things, and what is in the way, is a genuine part of the price.

  • Board in the garage and you park in the garage: about as good as it gets
  • Board at one end of the house, carport at the other: a long run through the roof space or under the floor
  • A detached garage or a sleepout: that is a submain, and a different job again
  • Concrete or paving in between: adds real work

Where the charger physically goes

If it is mounted outside, and on the coast it often is, it needs to be rated for it and positioned sensibly. Salt air out on the peninsula is hard on outdoor gear, and a charger tucked under some shelter will simply last longer than one fully exposed on a seaward wall.

Also worth a thought: which side of the car the socket is on, whether you ever reverse in, and whether the cable will be lying across a path where someone walks.

The compliance side

EV charger installation is prescribed electrical work. It has to be done by a registered electrician and certified, and you should get the paperwork on completion.

If there is any subsidy or funding going at the time you install, check it directly with the provider rather than trusting what an article says, including this one. Those schemes change and I would rather you got the current answer than my out-of-date one.

Check the board before you buy the charger

Send us a photo of your switchboard, or book a look. Ten minutes at the start tells you whether this is a straightforward job or a two-part one, and it is free. Call 0274 466 737 or get a quote. Here is what EV charger installation involves.

Thinking about a home charger?

We will check what your board can take before you buy anything. Free no-obligation quotes across the Hibiscus Coast.

EV Charging Questions

Can I just plug my EV into a normal power point?

You can, and for short daily distances it is workable. The limitation is speed, and the risk is that an ordinary outlet on old wiring was not designed to deliver near its capacity for eight hours at a stretch. If you plan to charge that way regularly, have the outlet checked, and never run it through an extension lead.

Do I need to upgrade my switchboard for an EV charger?

Sometimes. A charger needs its own circuit and specific RCD protection, so the board needs spare capacity and suitable gear. Plenty of newer boards are ready to go. Older or full boards usually need work first, which is why we check the board before quoting the charger.

How much faster is a wall charger than a wall socket?

Several times, and the gap is bigger again on three phase. The practical difference is whether an overnight charge tops you up or fully covers a long day's driving. Most people who start on a standard socket move to a dedicated charger within a year.

What makes one installation cost more than another?

Mostly two things: whether the switchboard needs work, and how far the charger is from it. A charger on the garage wall next to the board is a straightforward job. A detached garage at the other end of the property is a submain, which is a different scale of work.

Does the charger have to be inside?

No, outdoor mounting is normal as long as the unit is rated for it. On the peninsula we would suggest a position with some shelter where the layout allows, because salt air is hard on outdoor equipment and a sheltered unit lasts longer.